Across the river.

I've been in Jordan for almost two weeks, now. I have already experienced so much, I half wished I had lived here the past six months! Demographically, Jordan has a Arab Muslim majority, with a minority of Christians, mainly eastern Orthodox. There is no oil, very little water, and many, many refugees. As Jordan is essentially the only stable country in the region, many people have come here from surrounding countries to save themselves and their families.
 Around half of the citizens of Jordan are actually Palestinian refugees, or descendants of Palestinians who were forced to leave their homes after the various Israeli wars. The conflicts in Iraq and Syria have also created refugees. There are a number of refugee camps that have been set up over the years, and often the refugees decide to stay here and build permanent homes. Much of Amman isn't actually Amman, it's urban sprawl caused by old refugee camps. Interestingly, Jordan has not seen much in the way of uprisings like most Arab countries. Jordan is a monarchy, and the current king enjoys "benevolent dictator" status. He is generally liked across the country, and has offered a few political reforms and welfare to the populace in the past few years. Additionally, there is little to no sectarian violence between Muslims, due to the fact Sunni Islam is the only denomination represented. As it is yet fairly undisturbed by Islamist uprisings, the West, especially the U.S., views Jordan as an important asset in the region. Due to Jordan's lack of natural resources and it's refugee population, it is very reliant on foreign aid and loans. The law of the land is based on Islamic law, though ostensibly there is freedom of religion. The concept of choosing your religion does not legally exist here, you're born into your parent's religion. Those that leave the majority faith still face societal and legal discrimination.

Like I mentioned in earlier posts, I came out to observe and work with 3rd Person, inc.- an NGO based in Amman. I am staying with the incredibly hospitable family of one of the co-founders, and they are giving me an excellent view of what it would be like working here, or in a similar situation. 3rd Person works in a neighborhood called Quesmay. It is a poor section of Amman, composed of Palestinians and Syrians. Most of 3rd Person's projects utilizes the government center in the neighborhood, which has a playground, football pitches, a sewing workshop, and a community garden. Part of what this group does is employ local women to make bags and purses, and paying them a livable wage to support their families. I have been working in the garden, finishing walking paths and tilling the soil. Working the ground here emphasizes the importance of water, something most westerners take for granted and try to find ways to get rid of! I'm hoping to set up some water-reclamation barrels before I go.

Around here the public transit is mainly taxis. I've seen some buses, but locals have told me the system is frustrating, so I haven't even tried it. Communicating with people here is always a mix of fun and frustration. I use this weird English/Arabic pidgin, and sometimes it works, and sometimes it doesn't. Most of the taxi drivers are friendly guys, and try teaching me vocabulary as we drive, or talk about Palestine. All of them ask why I'm not married. When one younger driver found out that I am completely single, he glanced at me askance. Different culture, you know. Another time when I introduced myself in a vehicle, a woman misunderstood and thought I said I was Jewish. Everyone else just laughed it off. Since I've been immersed in two Semitic language for a while, now, I feel I should continue studying. I've been taking Arabic lessons while I've been here, and the tutor is willing to do lessons over Skype, but I am sure I could find a Palestinian or Jordanian somewhere in the States that would teach me.

Being in a foreign country works for me, and I feel I have the potential to do positive work out here. Simply being a student isn't sustainable, and is only a temporary option. I'm currently trying to figure out my options, and what specifically I can do to serve people throughout the world. Is it through government channels, such as the Foreign Service or an NGO? Perhaps it's social business, or community development. Maybe it's yet something completely different. Looking back on my time here, one thing is clear to me: communicating with people from all over the world has become one of my favorite things.

Temple of Hercules, part of ancient Philadelphia. It was a city in the Decapolis League.

Amman, note the Roman theatre and plaza.